2.8 LWB Buyers guide wanted please

[Drift]

Excessive smoke when running, you will very likely see a fair bit at start up as these are old engines now, listen for unusual knocking from the engine though again from cold it will sound like a bag of spanners towed by a transit van for the first mile.
Check all visible hoses and make sure best you can it has had regular oil changes, state of the filter exterior will give some clue.
it should not heat up past the first quarter mark certainly not to half way, I would be wary if it did.
Check the other Fronty A things like cracked bulk head and leaky rear diff, not a huge issue but good bargaining point.

Good luck

[Krusher]

My 2.8 will run up to 1/4 on temp gauge round town but on a motorway run it will go up to half, but never any further...

[reecy]

if in on high mileage ask when the timing belt was last done.

drift should of mentioned this 1

[gregster]

Good man Rob

Engine pretty well covered above, so heres some other ones...

As for bodyshell, A series is a few more years mature than a B, so some rot is possible....
Places to check are lower front panel (behind bumper), sills and floor pans in the front...and of course the bulkhead as dwifty said...

Check all the lecky windows work, and that the rear door handles arent broken and work...
Heated rear windows fail so check that works

Alternators are sometimes failers so check you are getting 3/4 on the old volt meter, any more and the regulator could be knackered..
Ensure engine is cold before you try and start, if it needs a pump on the lift pump before you start its gonna need new fuel lines or lift pump...

Starter motor should sound normal, not like Krushers!!!


A good test drive is essential with one of these...
The 2.8 was a favourite amongst horse owners and there isnt many that havent dragged a horsebox or equally heavy load around...
in fact myself and pretty much everyone I know with a 2.8lwb has found straw and hay in the back when cleaning the newly aquired car out from where they have carried bales around!
This points to the clutch might have had a hammering, so check the clutch feels good, bites well and isnt slipping at all...
Check for any vibrations when using the clutch as these trucks use a DMF which can get expensive to replace if it fails.
Listen carefully for any rear axle whine, especially on higher mileage trucks...this could mean a replacement axle if the diff is noisy (replacing ring/pinion/bearings would be prohibitively expensive)
Listen for rear bearing noise when cornering as rears can be a biatch to change, fronts are easy so a good bargaining tool...
Assuming that the tyre size/wear is approx the same all round, Test the 4wd in a straight line on tarmac...I know this is normally not recommended, but you want to see if it binds up (which it shouldnt in a straight line) as this would reveal mismatched front and rear diffs (possible if truck has had rear axle changed incorrectly in the past)...
Then try on dirt and see if you spin the tyres slightly to confirm the front is driving...if you can try and cross axle it so that only one front turns, this will check the front diff, any clunking/noises and demand £150 off or walk away....
Check options plate for G80 code, this is LSD limited slip diff...If you have got this make sure it works...cross axle truck,then select 2wd...the wheel that is light should spin to start then drive should be tranferred as lsd works to tyre with traction...if it doesnt it aint working (and I cant weld up an LSD like an open diff! )

Hope this helps mate....

[Drift]

Its a coiler but with the old dash loads of info in the suspension section on lifting them