lift

[foggy]

Hi all ive been on about getting a 2" lift for a while but havent got a clue where to start, would anyone on here give me a hand doing it i would travel within reason, and throw a couple of quid your way, it would be very much appreciated, thanks.

[alex]

Easy peasy once youve done afew, but a bit far from us up here.

[BadBoy]

What sort of lift are you looking at doing. Body lift, or suspension lift?
Body lift will raise the body of the car from the chassis to give additional clearance in the wheel arches for fitting larger tyres.
Suspension lift will increase your ground clearance/breakover angle.
There is a good thread here viewtopic.php?f=14&t=23434&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=BODY+LIFT for doing a body lift
Suspension lifts are dependant on how you want to do it. Either fitting new coils, longer shocks, or coil spacers or a combination of all 3

[fogman]

hi mate as youve gota b series have a look at this thread if your going for the cheaper spacer route viewtopic.php?f=5&t=28280
i havent got round to doing mine as i havent had the time yet

[jason]

[Drift]

All you need to know to lift a B series is on the FOG Wiki pages

http://www.fronteraowners.co.uk/wiki/in ... nsion_Lift

Anything you need help with just ask

[fogman]

right guys im no expert but after researching the site i think i can explain how to do a 2" suspension lift so if your not mechanically minded like me you will be able to understand the basics

first of all to raise the front end approx 2" you wont actually need to purchase or fit anything, you simply find the torsion bar adjustment nuts which are found underneath both sides of the car, you will see them roughly at the back end of the front doors theyre stonkers 26mm i think, if theyre turned clockwise the front end will lift approx 1/4 " per complete revolution so that equates to approx 6 - 8 turns to gain the 2" front lift. plenty of wd 40 needs to be squirted on them prior to turning i would think that this could be easier if the front wheels were jacked off the ground at the time but i have also read that it makes no difference so its a case of try & see

to raise the rear youve got 2 choices the 1st and cheapest is to fit a set of coil spring spacers like these

£30 a set from weave [ i dont think he still sells them now but you can always send him a pm ]

they are fitted by removing the rear coil springs & inserted on to the top of the springs like so in krushers picture

they are both then refitted & the rear 2" lift is complete.
the other way of gaining on the rear is to buy new set of rear coil springs but 2" longer than the standard set but theyre probably gona cost you approx £100 a pair.
i believe the standard shocks will be quite ok with a 2" height gain

[Drift]

Nice compilation, but with a 2" lift I would recommend getting + 2" rear shocks.

I have +2" coils on mine with a 1" spacer but I have 2" poly spaces to go on and when tried against my +2" shocks there was not enough travel so I was uncomfortable enough not to fit them until I get +4" shocks.
This equates over to any lift.

So ideally the rear shocks should equate to the extra height added or they can wear out very very quickly.

Its not so important for the front end as the travel is not as much due to the inherent restraint of the Independent Front Suspension (IFS)

[bobbinsjob]

I have lifted both the body and the suspension on my B series and will quite happily help you with the work. If you want a shopping list, let me know and we can sort a work weekend out

[alex]

Just a word of warning, dont wind up the torsions without checking.

At front wheel, there are 2 arms that hold the wheel to the car. The upper has a rubber toggle poking out of its top. Feel the other side of that rubber, its the bump stop that contacts the metal stop attached to the chassis when the wheel goes down a pothole or over the far side of a speed bump etc.

Some cars are closer to that stop than others, some rubbers a bigger than others, either way you need minimum 10mm (about 1/2 inch) gap at standing between the rubber and stop or the car will be very skittish when going over bumps. So check gap before winding and then after, if the bump stops get too close before the golden 2" then either stop and stay with achievbed height or pull rubber out and cut it down in size before putting back in. (rubber just pulls out from arm, the toggle is all that holds it in)