Goooooooood morning mudders

Cheers

Not gonna lie, I was bricking it for the exact same reasons Aredee. Glad I bit the bullet and did it though... just make sure you have everything at hand that you might need should the unexpected happen. I was more worried about the captive nuts/bolts breaking so made sure I had an electric drill, a few new drill bits, tap and die set, good pair of grips and plenty of coffee. The fronts I wasn't worried about as you replace them with new nuts and bolts anyway. Im no mechanic but I fitted my lift blocks on my own in 3 hours.

wow 3 hrs not bad local garage suggested would be about 10-15hrs and at £50 p/hr + parts could be more than i paid for car lol

Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa?!?!?!?

10-15 hours at £50 p/hr, I think im in the wrong job!!!!

Garage prices

I have just done the timing chains on the Girlfriends Ford Explorer. It is an engine out job and partial strip down to get it done. We were quoted £1700 and 2 weeks minimum. I could now do it in 3 days start to finish (2 if I really pushed it). Parts around £400 delivered from the US including supplies for a full service. I made a huge saving by doing it myself. I even had to make a kit up to lock the engine down while the chains, guides, and tensioners are removed.

I think 'huge savings' an understatement pal! :lol:

Kudos

Despite all the headaches and late nights its given me, I still bloody love this big green 'not so green' Tonka truck

Got to be one of the tidiest looking motors on here Shaggy
Food for thought but if the 2.2 head gasket ever gives you hassles what about doing the Trooper 3.1 or 2.8 engine transplant - it'll deffo last you a life time

Just need to take care where the doner lump would come from. As with second hand purchases you run the risk

Yuk!

What the photos don't show is all the rusty muddy water that came out when I took them off

That will be why your 4wd isn't working

You think? :lol:

I actually REALLY hope so :thumbup:

but i'll not hold my breath... im still thinking its the Diff tbh. That said, I've not yet had it up in the air and checked it.

I've been searching the forum trying to learn as much as I can and the things that keep popping up are Vac pipes and Solenoids. Are these a Fronty B problem or does the A have them too? Only reason I ask is when I engage 4H and roll forward/backward I don't hear any clunk/click/bang(?)

Oooh, I've also found that my shaft spigot bearings both have play... how much play is acceptable?

Vac pipes and things generally electrical are all B Series issues. You have an old school A series. Simple and effective.

Shaft spigot bearings? Do you mean main wheel bearings?

Tbh, I have no idea what I mean lol :lol:

I'd googled it and thought that's what it was....

I jacked my truck up in the air tonight and ran it in 4H... sadly the prop turns but not the driveshafts so I guess it wasn't the Autohubs after all but my Diffs shot :thumbdown:

On the flip side I've been offered a Trooper one but I don't know if it'll fit?

Had a couple of hours polishing yesterday, for what it is I wasn't going to go to town on it. I know most of the scratches and swirls will come out with the DA but I just couldn't be arsed :lol:

Megs wash and wax, dried, polished using some Megs Ultimate compound and then a once over with some CarSpunk wax.

Black wheels are on my 'To do' list

It'll get dirty soon..... I promise :lol:

Trooper diff won't fit unfortunately, You will need the entire front axle, and even then it will probably be the wrong ratio.

Greg is a Fronty breaker. He has a 2.2 in at the moment. I am going down his way at the weekend. If you message him I can grab it for you if you buy it off him. He will probably have a decent set of hubs as well. If you go for it I can drop them off and some point help you fit it all.

You mayt want to start a thread in "Members ride" section. This is getting a bit longer than a "hello" thread now lol.

Members Ride Section:

viewforum.php?f=46

Link to Gregs For Sale thread:

viewtopic.php?f=26&t=59362

Yep...I have a 2.2 front axle in one that came in the other day... :wink:

Thats fair. When you drained the front diff did any metal come out at all?

I am still thinking the hubs may be at fault. Personally I would refill the front diff, just in case.

Check your option code VIN plate on the bulkhead. There may be a remote chance you have the code "G80" If so you will need to fill the rear diff with LSD gear oil.

Rear diff plates now leaking worse than it was :oops:

Used plenty of instant gasket and I left it to cure a good 24hrs before refilling it, dunno why its leaking tbh :thumbdown: