2.2 vs V6

Hi all, what is a realistic mpg on 2.2i & a V6, my 2.2 would cost around a tenner for 40 mile dunno if thats good or bad, was wondering on a comparison between them as my 2.2 engine needs replacing so dunno wether to do it or go for V6 but my heart says keep the 2.2 cus I love it. :roll:

Hi,
I get averagely 20-23mpg on my 2.2 and love it to bits. the 3.2's give slightly better mpg and have a ton load more power. I am sure you would like both, but grin factor may be more in the 3.2 :lol:

have to go v6 all the time because if you get a 2.2 and drive a v6 youll be dissaponted every time you turn the key lol

the power makes the difference

So the v6 is a bit better on fuel suppose depends on how its driven. Thing is I love my A series and prefure to b series as my engine as had it what would be involved in putting a v6 in my A series, I have to get an engine for her any way and I know v6's are to be had at the rite money, would it be engine box ecu exhaust etc or would it be axles as well. Thing is you know your truck and could end up buying a lemon. I know from a economical point of view its prob not worth it but was just wondering.
Cheers guys

I've got both, and I like them both. Fuel consumption is almost the same, the 3.2 is more economical on a run and the 2.2 is better round town.......but there is really not much in it. Both have fully rebuilt suspensions and the same mods and in my opinion the 2.2 feels better balanced on the road. The 3.2 has always felt nose heavy. The downside of the 2.2 is the lack of power whereas the 3.2 has sufficient power and has what the truck really needs. So to me both trucks have pros and cons, even my 2.2 is reliable......in fact it's one of the most reliable cars I've ever owned.
So if I had to choose with both in front of me then I'd choose......................3.2 :dance:

Thanks for the info, thought the v6 would use a lot more fuel, just tryin to way up the most cost efective option as the 2.2 engines ive seen arnt cheap then if I factor in a new clutch as well. Whats better in the 3.2 manual or auto?

There are 2.2 engines on Gumtree mate, omega units fit and are cheaper. If you go for the v6 remember that all the mounts will be differant, props/mechanicals will be different on an A and B models so you will need to sort that out, then the loom and ecu etc etc.
I wanted to put one in my swb but turns out its easier/cheaper to just buy a v6 :wink:

Auto v manual, now that's a decision. Again I've had both . My present one is a manual but in all honesty I preferred my auto.....it was just nicer and more relaxing to drive. The trouble is you don't know the service history of the auto. They are a very good box in good condition but plenty of stories around of blown ones shortly after purchase. Manual ones if faulty are usually obvious, so logically you'd go manual, they are also cheaper when they go wrong......unless you can do an auto rebuild yourself, you'll have a hefty bill.
It's all down to choice, but if your worried about fuel consumption.....ie cost.....then go for manual as you'd sh@t yourself if you blew an auto.
After all that d rather have an auto.......but that's just me

As Danny boy says ......don't bother trying to swap one......you'll need the gearbox as the casings different, the props are the same, they wiring and ECU are different.........not worth the trouble, just buy a v6......there's are good few around.
My present one cost 750.00 with 6 months tax and test and 63000 gen miles.

I know what you mean, dilemas aye prob stick with getting a 2.2 unit, think is its never let me down n straight through mot' s, I knew engine were' nt to good but you get attatched to em if you know what I mean, I was looking at omega units, bit cheaper as you say. Unless somthin come up at the write price :roll:

on the v6 the auto are faster and just change the ATF when you get in and your good to go more often than not the v6 will leak atf out of the bottom return feed pipe on bottom or radiator because of the psi the system can get up to when climbing lng hills with trailers of mountains so just check everything is ok when you get it and then change the fluid there is a how to guide on changing and what to expect.

people just assume an auto box doesn't need its fluid changing but it does change it ever 30k or when you fee it starting to jerk when you change gear up getting lurchy on the down change, if you keep the fuild topped up and changed correctly the boxes on these are pretty bullet proof.

ive rage the hell out of mine for the last 38k that i have the car and even with upgrading the power to 265bhp a lot said it would kill the gear box but i just use racing atf as it stays a lot denser at higher temps and so means the gear box copes with burnouts, drifting, and donughts without much complaint.

like he said the auto box is so smooth and lazy you just plonk your bump hit the pedal an inch or so and say i want 60 and its there. off the lights just poke the sports button and it will do launch happily away leaving most boy racers looking for seconds as you keep going past 40 when it changes. ok doing this will make you a share holder of shell but i run my v6 on gas so i get 180 200 miles round town for £35 and over 250 275 on a long run as lpg is 65p a litre.

i wouldnt give mine up for love nor money lol makes me giggle for all the wrong reasons

Sounds goood to me I do like autos what they like off road?

Again there's support on both sides of the fence....personal choice in the end. I loved my auto off road and the ford f250 4 x4 auto I had was brilliant off road as well. I'm not much use as I don't hav a preference....auto or manual.... I'll take either :dance:

Well I think that just about covers things, thanks for all the info guys.
Keith.

keefy d

the autos are great off road you just need to be gently with the gas pick revs and let it do the work because when it spins it will spin

so take it nice and stead when needed if your spininng in 2wd hit the 4wd button on the dash but dont do it on tarmac save it for when 2wd wont do which you will find is quite far with on of these when its slipping about in 4wd or your going for something a little more tricky or steep put it neautral and then you can pull the smaller tick in to 4l which means you get the low range box and take then like i said put your foot down gently till your moving and then steady as you and hold the revs and let the car do the work.

the v6 has more power than you expexct and will spin all 4 wheels very easy in the wet stuff and in the auto really easy. if you find really wet mud and its really spinning the snow flace button for winter mode and you will not use first or second and so give you even more control.

normally once your in 4wd drive on steep hill the v6 has the power to gain momentum fast and then let the traction carry you the rest of the way you settle in your own way style of driving as you get more confident off road

Cheers Dean thanks for the info much appreciated, sounds good, was your power hike a remap?
Keith.

yep went 50/50 t start took it to 251bhp 340flb torque then went back and took it 265bhp for modified nationals last year at peterborough, as run on gas so still cheap as hell to run lol i put £10 petrol a fortnight and 30 a week round town a week unless im going some where specail lol

Cool, it give it a fair hike in power then bet its as torqey as you like :lol:

spins well lol

when it was on the rolling road last the blokes bum went as it started getting a bit of tyre wobble at 120 and he back off lol

being a portable road he was worried if the chains and strap went i would be launching strait into the back of his lorry lorry lol