Back door fixed.

Finally got my back door fixed. About time methinks as its been 4 years since it stopped working.

I was prompted to have a look at it when I got into the car the other day and realised my feet were in 2" of water. Wound the rear window down, shined a torch in and sure enough the door was full of water. This was due to me not being able to open the door and get at the drain holes to clear them. Now Im able to open the door again I took the door card off and discovered about 2" of silt, mud, water and broken glass from when I had the car broken into a few years ago.

All cleaned out now and thoroughly sprayed the inside of the door with plenty of WD40 and spray grease on all the locks and mechanisms. Thankfully no corrosion on the inside of the door.

On a whim I decided to repeat the process on the other 4 doors so all hunky dory now until the next problem arises.

Result

ytou reminded me I really must fix that rear window that wont go down, I dont sit in the back and forget :lol:

I gotta sort the wiper on the back of the B, all I have bothered to check so far is the fuse.

Dam weather just aint condusive to playing, bring on winter.....

Its not the switches as the motor tries to work, its the mechanism just gotta be arsed getting in there :lol:

Not had a back door apart.... piccies...

I've still gotta get round to fixing my rear drivers side leccy window :lol:

Its funny as I had to take it apart twice one to fix the lock as it wouldnt unlock and once to get glass out when someone tried to pinch it by smashing the quarter glass, both times I forgot to look at the window mechanism :oops:

theres one in brasenose motors

I used to live by there :lol:

Its ok, I just need to remember to look at it :oops:

When you take the card off you will see a plastic tube going from the top of the door and arcing to the bottom of the door. This has a long 'spring' type cable in it and the motor has a gear on it that moves the cable up and down. On mine due to the water sitting in the door the bottom of the cable had rusted and sort of seized in the outer plastic sheath causing the window to stick. I wiggled the cable about a fair bit, well as much as I could because it is fairly rigid and sprayed wd40 into the tube, after opening and closing the window a fair few times it seemed to ease off and work smoothly, I then sprayed grease into the tube and hoped for the best.

I didnt do a great job as really you want to remove the whole window mechanism and clean and grease everything properly but it all works none the less.

Ill bear that in mind Phil, it works and thats what counts,

It certainly does count. Makes a scratchy sound when going up and down from the rust n grit and wotnots but its a bit quieter now then it was when I first cleaned it. All in all prob a half hour job for that door. Then 10/15 mins for the other doors as they were just a grease and oil job.

Forgot to mention that the bottom of the sheath/cable turns up in the centre of the door and the cable goes up the central (vertical) runner that the window slides up and down on.

I got a tip from a mobile auto electrician years ago, he said always lube the material in the door tops where the glass runs in, as this gets wet and swells and can cause the motor to stress, he told me not to use grease or anything just plain old washing up liquid and you wont suffer from smears, and when the material padding swells with the damp its automatically lubed by the washing up liquid

Thats good thinking Batman. By the way, got my Camber sorted out, they didnt shim it just dropped it down a 1/2" or so with the torsion bars. Mechanic said it was the ball-joint spacers otherwise he would have had to shim it. Ive lost a bit of height which Im a bit upset about it but it means that I have acres of down-travel now.

IFS does have limits :wink:

but think, you may save yourself a lot of grief with your cv joints each 1/2 inch makes a huge difference :wink:

Get some manual hubs if you havent already

I have some diff spacers which I keep meaning to fit. Gonna wait until they are in before I raise the front up any more, then Il have to get the camber re-checked. Garage man only charged for the camber check as opposed to labour for fitting shims and wotnots so Im happy enough.

Just new front brake discs, +2" springs, +4" rear shocks, +3" front shocks, winch bumper, winch and bigger tyres (again) to go on it and Il be happy.

Still to fit the body-lift, diff spacers and spotlights. If only it would stop raining for a whole day I would be happy.

And on a side note the BJ spacers added another 1" of downtravel to the front end on top of whats added with the BJ flip.

Yer the bj flip and spacers will help the alignment, I cant go higher as the T bars will have to be re indexed as per Red Oktober did, but then I recon I may need bj spacers or more fettling with the shims, but its spot on where I want it at the moment, I would like the toe in/out checked but the tyre places all freak when they hear my set up

it aint that bad

Have you got a winch ?

I aint bothering to be honest, just cant justify it plus it would detract from any front suspension height gain.

Stiil got my front discs here , MOT man didnt mention then so Ill squeeze more out of what I have on :lol:

Nope, no winch, or winch bumper for that matter. I bought Lawrence's old bullbars and winch tray in anticipation but I reckon for the kind of off-roading I do that it will be last on the list of things to do.

Im very happy with the downtravel that I now have though. I went up to the log ramp near me and had another go, I got further up it this time then I did before, no pics unfortunately as it was a snap decision to go and check it.

This is the ramp Im talking about. I made it up one more log this time before the front wheel left the ground.

Will get more pics soon.

Thats very impresive, as like me its a daily drive and as long as it handles the lanes ok I for one am well happy

I see no need for the winch as anything hard I wont be on my own, and Ill have a tow rope, thouh I do like the look of tubular bumpers, especially for the rear , hmmm