rust treatment

[deanojul67]

anybody used that rust stuff that supposed to change rust to like solid metal
is it any good , or a load of old tosh??

[rattusrattus13]

in my opponion it s*** and dont work just prolongs the enevtible

[Drift]

It depends on the product, once applie and set it need coating or the rust will encroach again.

[markta]

i think its useless to,tryed it a number of times,the rust always comes though (on the bodywork that is)....

[Drift]

One of the best treatments is POR15 its expensive but works, the only problem is it breaks down it left in direct sunligh it isnt UV resistant, so after a day or two of curing you need to paint/spray over it and you will have no problems.

Its ok to use underneath the car in shaded areas, word of warning dont get any on nuts or bolts it near enough welds them in place and they are a pig to get off

Classic car restorers use it.

[markta]

think the stuff i used was called 'krusty' sure it was,someone will no if thats the brand name

[deanojul67]

One of the best treatments is POR15 its expensive but works,

cheers drift sounds like what im after wanted to use something underneath it isnt bad realty considering age but thought get wire brush on drill coat with something then maybe spray with some kind of underseal stuff

[di]

KURUST


Holts also do some

[Big Dave]

Sure I have used some Holts stuff, or Loc-tite - while ago now

Seemed to work, depends on how bad the rust has set in - remember it went jet black - took quite a bit of painting over though (cheap white paint aerosol)

[micktheshed]

Only thing I've found (tried them all!) that works for a loooong time(ie: 10 years or more) is ordinary glass fibre resin. Paint this over DRY rust (be sure to cover all the rust) leave to set compleatly then lightly abrade, fill in as required & paint. Or just leave it if its out of sight. I've restored several rusty hulks, err classic cars, using this method rather than cut & weld & its lasted just as long. It is most important to compleatly seal the affected area.
If the area gets damaged it will need treating again ASAP to keep out the miosture.

[awdriver96]

Nearly all rust cures are based on phosforic acid, it does work but there are various things which come into it. Many rust spots are in the double layer areas like body joints and seams and toshing it on the outside leaves all the inner parts still rusting away happily, even on the single skin parts you need to knock off the loose flakes and put the stuff on both sides, if thats impossible grind a bit of the rusty metal away to allow you to fiddle a fine paint brush through the hole.
It is also essential to put some sort of coating over the treated area paint , resin as somebody mentioned, zinc rich primer is particularly good and then paint it. At the back of wheel arches i have an old shutz gun in which I mix oil and grease and lather it once the outer has been painted.
You just have to use the method which suitss the particular problem you have, some of the best rust cure /preventatives have sadly gone off the market, either due to lack of sales these days ( all these people buying new plastic boxes) or the Europrats banning the chemicals ( all for our own good of course ), give it a go, you can always ask on here.
Mike

[yaki]

Nearly all rust cures are based on phosforic acid, it does work but there are various things which come into it. Many rust spots are in the double layer areas like body joints and seams and toshing it on the outside leaves all the inner parts still rusting away happily, even on the single skin parts you need to knock off the loose flakes and put the stuff on both sides, if thats impossible grind a bit of the rusty metal away to allow you to fiddle a fine paint brush through the hole.
It is also essential to put some sort of coating over the treated area paint , resin as somebody mentioned, zinc rich primer is particularly good and then paint it. At the back of wheel arches i have an old shutz gun in which I mix oil and grease and lather it once the outer has been painted.
You just have to use the method which suitss the particular problem you have, some of the best rust cure /preventatives have sadly gone off the market, either due to lack of sales these days ( all these people buying new plastic boxes) or the Europrats banning the chemicals ( all for our own good of course ), give it a go, you can always ask on here.
Mike

Good post, done lots of this in the past when I was into Classic Cars, another thing peeps tend to do is treat the rust and then primer over the top and then leave it like that, noooooooooooo don't do it.

Primer will let moisture through and undo all the good work you just did, stick some top coat on it, even it it aint the right colour just keep out the moisture

[nitromotor]

I agree to a vast extent; however it depends where the rust is, if its surface rust then fine treat it.
If its corroded all the way threw do what you can afford, if it’s structural, cut it out and seem weld fresh metal in….

[deanojul67]

loads of different ideas here, never heard the fibre glass one b4 , am going to try 1 on underside of truck as its not too bad at all going to wire brush on drill an then treat with one of the above

[Huwwalford]

Another one for the pot......My local garage suggested used chip fat oil mixed with waxoyl....any coments welcome as I would also like to treat the underside of my Fronty in the summer. The underside is in quite good nick at the moment (2000 DTi), just looking to protect it a little.

Thanks,
Huw.

[deanojul67]

i know loads of the lads on the paj site used wd40 start of every winter just sprayed on a few cans, they used to swear by it