Hi All
The hub bearing saga on my 2.8 Sport continues:
Changed the N/S/F bearings tonight (did the O/S/F last night, see earlier post). But this time I measured everything as it was disassembled. Checked that there was endfloat on the Auto hub lump and that the shim was free to move. Before taking the lock washer off I measured from the lock washer to the end of the stub tube - 2.8mm, knocked the bearings out;wiped them down and measure their height against the new ones. The combined difference showed the new bearings to be 0.3mm thicker. Fitted the new bearings (making sure they were fully driven home, incidently the bores the bearings fit into are not radiused at the bearing stop and the bearings have a radiused edge so they will fit against the stop), then fitted the hub to the stub, adjusted up the bearings and fitted the locking washer then remeasured the depth 1.9mm. Dropped the locker assembly on,this time fitting the circlip was impossible with the shim in place. I removed the shim and fitted the circlip and it was still an extremely snug fit, I had to tease it into the groove. Now the auto locker assembly doesn't float about, I road tested it up the road and along a verge, bearings are Ok and the lockers engage with 4H and 4L and they unlock when you back-up in 2H.
Would be greatful for opinions as to whether the auto locker need to float about and what is the likely out come of running without the shim and no endfloat to speak of.
The Haynes manual says "don't forget to fit the shim" It also advises that to replace a missing shim you need to take the vehicle to Vx steeler so they can use special tools to measure "it" to calculate what thickness is required. Any body know the equation/formulea or how much endfloat/freeplay there should be?
Regards
Stuart
