Dash bulbs easy to sort out, several screws and the steering wheel needs to come off but shouldnt take more then 15/20 mins.
Shocks and bushes allow couple of hours all round. Again easy if you know what you are doing and have a few hands.
Water loss is a concern as Alex said. But fill it up and see if it stays in. If it loses water overnight then could be a leaky hose somewhere.
If head gasket then it might be hard to turn over in the morning and after a bit of usage there may be a mayonnaise like substance on the oil filler cap. Also check the dipstick, water can show up as bubbles on the stick.
Rough idle could be spark plugs/leads but more then likely distributor and or rotor arm or all 4. Cheap enough and easy to fix.
Could also be idle control valve sticking but that usually revs the engine a bit, then drops the idle speed, sometimes almost as if its going to stall then revs up again, or "hunts" for a steady idle.
Suspension ball joints, top ones are easy and with a couple of hands can be changed fairly quickly, bottom ones can be difficult but easier with extra paws to assist.
go round the car and spray a joint/bush liberally with wd40, take the car for a drive and check if noise is still present, repeat process with all joints you can see/find until it stops. This wont work if a bush/joint is very badly worn in which case a pry bar on all the joints will show up any excess play.
And as Alex say, glueable CV joint boots work quite well and dont take long to fit compared to the regular boots and will pass an MOT no problem if fitted correctly.
As previously mentioned gauges could be loose connector or broken wire, or sender unit. But if more then one gauge isnt working then Im inclined to think dodgy connector. Its possible that the instrument cluster has been taken out and the connector at the back isnt fitting properly. Not uncommon as the cable is quite short and can be a pain to fit back in with big hands.
I also drink Port and I'm not ashamed to say it!
Me Truck