Comments on sals purple flakey fronty please

Thanks for all your comments foggers...the thing is honestly photos dont do it justice!! It looks like a pyschodelic christmas decoration on a sunny day... :shock:

Need to find some chrome side steps for it, and its getting some isuzu rear light like in my truck with the chrome surrounds. (might try some chrome paint..not the aersosol stuff, my mate has just got a chrome paint system in his paintshop and it is the nuts!!)

Still fancy the idea of lowering it and 22's, as sal will kill me if it ever gets anywhere near "offroad". :dance:

Laters and thanks again...

Gregster

ps drifty you are worrying me...where does the line come between admiring someone and fantasizing over someone...just I am getting a bit scared...my morales may be questionable, but I do have standards!! :dance:

Lovely job that man :dance:

I've got a rear bumper on my Rover that needs doing..............................

yer a better man than me bernie , iv nae clue about spraying cars . does sound impressive though .

A friend...didnt use gun with agitated pot as use a gravity fed bored out aerometal unit, flake seems to stay nicely suspended with the agitation of gun movement. Also the flake was added to 3 gun loads of clear, so any density differences in flake are lost with the approx 4 lightish coats over the car.
Have tried using sunction fed gun before for flake and it tends to sink to the bottom, so gravity fed seems to definately be the way.
I also use a duster that I made out of a degreasing gun (new one!!) for doing really large flakes, basically you lay a 2k clear of the car so sticky, then load the duster with the flake dry and then blow the flake onto the tacky lacquer, then clear coat to death!!This makes larger flakes lay better, in solution they can lay upright and even 5 litres of clear wont bury them! Works great on roofs too, as you can apply into the air over the roof and let the flakes fall and settle themselves....works a treat and cost less than a tenner!! :dance:

Nice gun the Devilbiss JGA gyspy, not sure about celly set up though...far too much hassle to get a nice finish for me..2k rocks..dust coat,heavy one and wet one (a bit more thinner) and jobs a good un...no flatting, mopping, just cook it up, unmask, and its done and shiny! Celly is good for classics though...they wouldnt look right in 2k or base n 2k clear.

Laters

Gregster

I like lots.....

very nice colour

hi again, great wed site just on and orderd catalogues . thank for the information great help, going to try out some product thank,s again

Way back when I was involved in that sort of thing tried metalflake but it just kept clogging the nozzle,as your guns are set for 2k they will have larger nozzle with steeper needle angle so the flakes would flow faster :idea:

Gravity feed

that is soooo obvious after been told :oh yer:

,loving the degreaser gun dodge.

One afternoon I shall have to give you a celly Base & Clear lesson ,dead easy the secret is in the thinners (expensive & lots of it in the clear) :wink:

Looks absolutly fanF**ckingtastic.

Like Kieth I havent a clue WTF you were on about with the techie bits.

Was looking to use a 2" strip of hammerrite smooth on the front of my bonnet to cover the rust. (Limmit of my painting ability).
Once had a Series III landy in council yellow that In Council Yellow that I brush painted with landy green and cream.

Trev

Trev, there is nothing wrong with brush painting a vehicle,not sure if it is still available but at one time you could buy "Brushing Coach Enamel" which was truncated to "coach enamel" , which as the name implies is an enamel paint formulated for brush application on "coachwork",or as it is now known bodywork :wink:

The "alcia" range of paints ( a fairly cheap brand used more for commercials) can be formulated for brush application instead of spraying. This is widely available and works ok. I painted my panda4x4 with it a few years back with acceptable results.

Thanks for the offer of celly training A friend...I can do it, but its hard work compared with more modern materials. A lot of my airbrush work uses solvent based products and the techniques are similar to my old celly painting, but then they sealed with rock-ard 2k clears...I never find celly clear to be as tough in the long run. Would be good to break out ya JGA and get creative though...they are nice for fades particularily.( I did a transit with a red back faded through orange into a yellow front...nightmare to do..especially because the roof had to match...but the suction fed was great as used 5 paint pots for colour transitions, and then faded between them....and loads of fadeout thinners! Looked the nuts, constant fade with no colour jumps or steps front to rear....BUT I WILL NEVER DO IT AGAIN!! :axe:

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With ref to your bonnet country_est, you could always use the wind deflecter that is found on the bonnet of many hilux surfs...I offered the one up off my surf on sals fronty and it will go. They are normally made of tinted clear perspex, but spraying the back of it with an aerosol will make colour coding or "blacking" possible, and it wont scratch of if you do it that way. (remember how we used to do ford badges years ago...sand the back and paint the back body colour...might work with vx badges...now theres a thought!! :dance:

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There is loads of surfs breaking on fleabay...just drop the sellers an email if theres one in their picky.

WOW love it, the OH can see me thinking hehe.