WHAT YOU DID TO YOUR TRUCK TODAY!

it was effective :lolno:

I found where the jack is hiding. :dance:

LWB under the rear seat, swb in the plastic fairing in the boot :thumbup:

spent a couple of hours cleaning up and welding the near side step. i will have to do the off side another day as i got to go to work in one hour

long weekend my arse i've only got saturday night off work

Checked the oil, power steering fluid and water then topped up the screen wash, sprayed the electrics with silicon spray then found my 55watt spot light on a mag mount and checked it works ready for my trip across Salisbury Plain in the dark tonight, the Bourne Valley 4x4 boys midnight drive should be home about 2.00am tomorrow morning. :thumbup:

Went straight through the latest MOT, couple of minor advisories that I knew about.
Got covered in Waxoil having started on the underside as well.

are you bringing him along sunday rob ?

Took the gearbox off the v6 to look at the broken clutch and possible damaged flywheel. The good news is the flywheel is fine and the bad news is i am still trying to find a cheaper clutch. Cheapest i can find is £220 for a valeo!!!
Would like to thank Scott for helping and bringing his impact gun

Thanks again mate your a star :wink:

The v6 clutch is strange

Looks like a scooby WRX bearing set up?

No idea but i have never seen anything like it before

Is it the thrust bearing in the plate? think you need to turn and pull to change it, but they do get stuck.

Having another look thats chaffered in, so turning wont work unlees you bend the chaffer back

Yes ste the thrust bearing is fixed to the plate. Have not got the new clutch to compare the two yet.

When reseating it just use copperslip on the shaft to make sure none spins onto the clutch plates, the outer of the bearing shouldnt need greasing. It may slip in from the other side as cant see the makes allowing it to be bent to fit the bearing in.

Mate, just found this on ebay! item 320868218290. could it be the clutch you need!!?? :wink:

Did see that Danny but really want a well known brand clutch not a cheap unknown brand :wink:

Just dont want to fit a cheap clutch for it to go in a few months time :wink:

Thanks though mate :thumbup:

Ran the co-ax in for the CB antenna from the roof bar mounting point thing above the rear door post via the roof edge, down the windscreen piller (internal) and out the access point under the dash (near the fuse box). It was pretty simple to do, I just used a long length of 2.5 stranded single that was kicking around the shed (2.5mm2 CPC single core stranded actually), measured it out and marked the rough length so I woud have an idea that I had got it all in and where the end was likely to end up. Then fed it in via a nice slot opened up by removing the rear grab handle and easing back the roof lining, gentle pushing and twisting to get it round obstacles and I got it to where it was needed. Having already removed the lower trim below the steering wheel and the speaker to allow for better access I managed to spot it with the aid of a torch and hooked it out with a bit of bent welding rod. Taped the co-ax to it as well as a spare cable for future use and gently pulled it back.

Mounted the antena base. Just got to 'adapt' the roof bar mounting point cover to fit over the antenna base now.

Got invited to go shopping and had the grandkids over (they brought their parents with em, again...) so I get to do the rest of the fit in the morning.

Round 2 of brake line removal...

I won...!!! eventually, did take some damage though..bruised elbow and usual scraped knuckles oh and more brake fluid in my hair and gob..(wifes shampoo and a cold tinny took care of last two)

ended up taking the load valve off to get at the union squarely. it was proper tight, thankfully the two lines that go along the chassis rail had been replaced prior to my ownership, so they came off with just a little resistance.

after snapping my brakeline spanner i was left with resorting to the age old method of whacking (correct technical term i believe) a suitable socket onto union and then gently persuading it to turn..union off and cream crakered, but new ones were needed anyway. and it's one of them jobs that hopefully once done should live the remaining life of the truck, well the old ones have been there for 15years!..

next up making new lines..but i'm going to cheat a little there. had a word with a local motor factors and if i give them the lengths i need, they will flare the pipe and put the new unions on for me.(obviously put the unions on before they flare them..and thats why they are doing it, i'll just charge off flaring pipes forgetting to put the unions on)

just a quick question (in the wrong place I know)
bleeding the system..as I seem to remember its start with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder, but since i've removed the load valve should I bleed that first? never done one before (a load valve, I've bled brakes before. and i hate doing them, so tedious and frustrating..just like exhausts)