cooking a whole car...

Right I have offered to help paint a members car. We have paint booths at work for Fabrications, we prime paint, cook for 40mins at 80degrees, then gloss and re cook. Then the paint is touch dry, final cure in a few days.

Trouble is, I reckon 80degrees isnt good for a car.

So what would b safe?

I know various parts of the med see 40 degree heat, so 40 should be real safe. Would 50 be safe? 60 sounds a bit too far.
Also as my fabs are a bit more dense than a lil old fronty, the surface will get up to temp much quicker, so I wont need 80, 50 sounds about right to me.

20 minutes a pound plus 30 minutes on gas mark 5 for medium rare i reckon :lol:

Hi mate i think this might help!!!!!
http://www.ehow.com/video_4431717_bake- ... t-job.html

Remember to lower tyre pressure or even remove them and I think a full tank of fuel is better than an empty tank (less vapours).

HIya mate....

A lot depends on what paint you are using to do the car....waterbased, or 2k or synthetic all require different cooking temps and time...
and also paint technique has a bearing to...ie are you wet on wetting laquer onto base if metallic, or are you cooking the base then scotching up for clear...

Most body shops use a low bake oven which will cooks much lower temps than you are looking at...and if using waterbased base coats then airflow is more important to cure paint than the temperature...

Your paint should have a spec sheet available for it that will give recommendations as to painting temp and cure times with air dry or lowbake...

The paint is PU wet, isocyanate unleaded 2 pack. Yellow, we use it a lot and it will air dry, but takes ages. Hence the cooking. I reckon 40 degree would be safe. The painter uses it all day, might not be full auto spec, but our customer is picky about the finish.

Bobby, link didnt play vid, but the text says his booth runs up to 150F thats 65c :shock:

Thats pretty warm for a whole car. Cant see heat being an issue then

Shame as its a great practical joke sending someone in at 80c, they get out quick

40 degree will be fine mate...dont need any hotter than that, all the heat does is to help evaporate the solvent and stimulate the activator...

For the time and effort involved in doing the respray I must say I would be inclined to buy a couple of litres of half decent automotive 2k...even the commercial stuff lechler or alcea does is ok and cheap, and it will give a nice finish...2 litres + activ+ 2k thinner will cost about £50 if using a british standard colour...
As for curing time...if you paint in the morning and cook it at 30-40degrees for about an hour, you will be driving it that afternoon! Best bet is not leave outside in rain for a day though as heavy rain can still dent the paint slightly...but nothing that wouldnt mop out...
Get the right activator and thinner though...if you use a winter/air dry activ then paint will cure before it is fully flowed out and finish will end up orange peely...use a standard activator if cooking it and dont have the temp to hot in the booth when painting or dust coat will be dry before your heavy and wet coat...

I was going to say that. :dance:

Anyone wanna paint mine..............anything but YELLOW :shock:

just for you alex

I wont see him for another three weeks, but one to rib him on :lol:

go on ste, show the picture

may well be worth a walk down the road alex giz a shout if ya need a hand