getting stuck

ok so I keep getting stuck offroad when I shouldnt be, there is always plenty of clearance under the chassis and all the wheels are on the ground however only 1 wheel is spinning and its not getting any grip

would that be front or rear wheel?
Is 4wd acually working?
What surface are you on? and what condition/pressures on the tyres?

I would have thought if one wheel is spinning out and you're not making any progress then either the 4wd isn't engaging or the car has manual front hubs which haven't been locked.

4wd is working fine and was engaged, the car has auto hubs and I was on semi wet mud. a little suzuki thing went before me and didnt get stuck at all

would manual locking hubs help at all

are you driving the b in your profile ? and what type of tyres are you using in muddy conditions because they can make the world of difference to grip levels :wink:

yeah Im driving that, Ive got special track reps

this is a pic of where I got stuck

Are you sure that only one wheel is spinning? and not one rear one that you can see (OSR) and also the NSF that you cant see?

Our 4wd system has no centre diff, and hence it is impossible to have only one wheel spinning if it is in 4wd.

So either 4wd isnt engaging, or one wheel at the each end must be spinning.

Cross axling is common in 4wd, this is where opposing corners have traction, and retrospectively the other 2 corners dont, and with IFS that is easy to accomplish due to limited suspension travel at the front end.
For example if you negotiated an obstacle so that the front wheels contacted it at a different time (ie hole in the ground that only one front goes into) then the wheel in the hole droops and looses grip, wheras the wheel out of the hole carries more weight, suspension compresses and has more grip. The car will tend to lean into the hole, so that at the back end of the car the tyre on the same side as the hole carries more weight and has more grip, and the tyre on the side which didnt go in the hole droops and looses grip. There will come a point where the two drooping wheels have insufficient traction, depending on the depth of the hole, such that they cannot deliver enough drive to keep the car moving forwards. with a car with open differentials in each axle, the power will take the path of least resistance, so the 2 opposing unloaded tyres will just spin, and the car grinds to a halt. This is being crossaxled, the example of a single hole is mutliplied if you have staggered holes in ruts or were to tackle a bank diagonally.
The answer....momentum...this will carry the vehicle through the point of no drive to the point it has traction again, or alternatively drive the obstacle so as to avoid a cross axle situation.

Hope this helps

Getting stuck is somthing Im well known for

lol

But on a serious note...does the 4wd light come on solid or does it flash when u press the button? If it flashes then you need to replace your vac pipes - theres a how to on here...but as long as u replace them all (including the ones under the engine that goto the front axle) one at a time you cant really go wrong

just dont confuse the fuel leak off pipes with the vac pipes

. If the light is solid it means that it thinks that 4wd has fully engauged and if you are 100% sure only 1 of the 4 wheel are spinning you may have a blown front diff or transfer case because some1 (you or a prev. owner) has used 4wd on the road and broken something....OR it might just be a blown CV joint....but you'd hear that rattle and crash about...

Hope its just the vac pipes because that fix costs less than a tenner

New front diff or transfer case isnt so cheap

- best of luck!

yeah the 4wd does flash, I just thought that was normal cos its done it since I bought it. Ive never used 4wd on the road it tells me not to on the sun visor lol

see the link below mate...and try this first... :wink:

http://www.fronteraowners.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=39516

cheers for the link, I will check them all tommorow