2wd Low?

Hello again, just wondering if anyone has done a 2wd lowrange transfer box mod for the 2.0 Frontera?

Paul Higgi has fitted Terralow gears to his 2.5, I dont know of any being used on a 20L.

Maybe a cheaper option is changing the axle ratio?

Yep 2wd low is easy peasy mate.... :shock:

Just fit manual hubs on the front and use it in 4 low with the hubs unlocked...

And its a simple as that...

I do it all the time for shunting trailers, no bind up but much kinder on your clutch...

Our modded trucks with welded front diffs spend large chunks of time off road with one hub unlocked to help the steering...

Wouldnt want to do motorway speeds like this, but then you would use high 2wd anyway...

Trooper or fronty hubs will fit, aisens and avms being the most common...they come up on here sometimes or milners do them new, or check on ebay...

Hope this helps mate

Cheers for the prompt replies folks, my situation is somewhat different as the only bit of frontera I own is a 2.0 gearbox.
It's going in this

Which is Vitara chassis/axles/suspension/steering, XE/Frontera gearbox and 1976 Civic shell
The weak spot on the Vitara is the front axle and I need to retain that to retain the points to keep the id and keep it road legal.
On trials it's handy to be able to switch between 2wd low and 4wd low for tight corners/climbs, on the Vitara box there's a mod that gives you a twin stick transfer shifter, with one stick controlling 2/4wd and the other hi/lo like so

I just wondered if there was an equivalent Frontera 'box mod?

Not that I am aware of mate...depending on budget I would opt for a divorced transfer case to go behind the fronty box...you could do this 2 ways either retaining the fronty TF box, so you gain an extra set of ratios as you would have high, low and double low, or ditch the fronty box and use a omega 2wd gearbox...
The NP205 TFbox as fitted to loads of yank 1 tonne (payload) pickups is divorced and can be twin sticked and is ultra bullet broof...
With these boxes not only can you get 2wd low rear, but I think you can get 2wd low front (great for front tucks)
These are the choice of the rockcrawling lads over the pond...
Hope this helps...cool project by the way...love it!

Np205 twin stick conversion... :wink:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NP-205-GM-style-Stainless-twin-stick-shifter-W-boot-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5195e34c3dQQitemZ350407052349QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Funny, as I was thinking about asking this, but on a B. I'm thinking it might me easyer to mod on a B as the stick only controls hi/lo. Would it be possible to remove the solenoid from the Tbox? so you can switch without having to select 4wd 1st?

Sorry for hi jacking your post by the way! but the rules say I cant post the same thing twice. And good luck with your build! it looks great so far!

Heres another thought, something my Chevy might be getting! :shock:

If you put a divorced transfer case like an SJ one behind the fronty TF case....you could get real clever :wink:

The low ratio would have to be the same on both TF boxes...

but heres the twist...
Run the front axle off the front output on the fronty TFbox...
Run the rear output from the fronty TFbox into the input on the divorced TFcase...
Run the rear output of the divorced case to the rear axle...

This would give you...
RWD High....fronty TFbox in 2h and divorced case in 2 or 4 h
Rwd low...fronty TFbox in 2h and divorced case in 4L
Rwd Double Low...fronty TFbox in 4L, divorced TF box in 4L and manual hubs unlocked (great for pulling heavy stuff on grippy ground)
Fwd high...fronty TFbox in 4h and divorsed case in Neutral (if its got a neutral)
Fwd low...fronty TFbox in 4L and divorced case in Neutral
4wd high...Fronty TFbox in 4H and divorsed case in 2H or 4H
4wd low...Fronty TF box in 4L and divorsed case in 4L
Now the really good ones!
Rear LOW Front HIGH...fronty TFbox in 4H and divorsed case in 4L....(great to get front tyres up something near vertical without digging the ar5e in)
Rear Double LOW and Front low...Fronty TF box in 4L and divorced case in 4L..as above but much double lower geared for crawling the front up stuff with out digging

The front prop output on the divorced case could be use to run an air compressor maybe so it keeps the tank full all the time switchable by selecting 4h or 4low on the rear case...think onboard air....or maybe an airbag over the rear axle to force it down and lift the back if you high centre or try and find grip in the bottom of swamp...or maybe 2 airbags to force rear articulation to help lift a front wheel...

Obviously the split ratio (front high rear low) selection would cause bind up on the flat, but picture approaching an obsticle that was nearly vertical...drive up to it so the front tyres touch...The next thing that needs to happen is the front tyres need to climb say 2 feet, but your rears are only gonna need to move less than a foot forwards as they do this...normally as the fronts climb the rears with dig or start to bounce, but select low front and double low rear and you will climb much better with little loss of traction and no digging, the rears will just keep the fronts pressed against the object as they scrabble up...once the rears reach the obsticle or the fronts break over the top, shift the divorced case back into 4h for equal gearing again...
This same technique could be used when doing turns up a slope..imagine you are running in a bog parallel to the bank and now need to turn left and up the bank...normally as you try and turn up the rear pushes you straight forwards and the front tyres slide sideways and you are still in the bog...select your split ratio again and the fronts will now climb out much better as the rear is just helping not shoving you forwards...
This instances where split ratio will be right handy are often the kind of stuff where the landrover lads win hands down with their centre diffs open with drive being proportioned where it is actually needed...

Got brain ache now...hope that gives you something to ponder on anyway... :lol:

Cheers for the info people, is there an exploded diagram of the 2.0 transfer box online anywhere? My google fu is weak tonight and I'm having no success.

BTW if anyone is considering the XE swap in their Sport I've discovered the flywheel/clutch combination needed to get the release bearing sat in the right place. It's an early fwd 2.5V6 single mass flywheel and pressure plate with Frontera sport friction plate. Many thanks go to Retro Pedro of this very parish for his assistance with finding some of the missing pieces of the clutch jigsaw.

I considered putting a build thread up here but I struggle to find the time to keep this build thread updated without copying it across to loads of other forums too.
Thanks again for all your help.

After spending ages and ages looking at the B 4wd system its not as complicated as I first thought. Basically you press the button while in 4H(igh). The 4wd ECU tells the rear actuator to arm the solenoid which then connects the gearbox via the transfer case to the front prop (and in turn the front diff). Now once that proceedure has taken place the rear actuator has a switch in it which is tripped when the rear actuator moves. This switch is connected to the 4wd ECU. When the signal from the rear actuator switch changes the ECU knows that it is properly engaged so sends a signal to the two solenids in the engine bay by the bulkhead. This then reverses the vacuum flow through both of them. These Solenoids are connected to the front actuator. By reversing the flow through them it moves a shaft with a fork attached. The fork then connects the front nearside (passenger) drive shaft to the front diff. The shaft in the front actuator also has a switch in it that changes continuity and then sends this signal back to the 4wd ECU. When both switches have sent their new signal to the 4wd ecu it then changes the dash light from flashing to constant.

So in easy steps
1)
Push button
2)
4wd activates rear actuator solenoid making it joing front prop to drive train
3)
Rear actuator switch sends new signal to 4wd ECU
4)
4wd ECU activates front actuator solenoids making it join nearside driveshaft to front diff
5)
Front actuator switch sends new signal to 4wd ECU
6)
dash light goes constant.

Now if the dash light is flasshing at 2hz it means the system is going about its business of engaging or disengaging. If there is a problem (i.e. it gets a signal from the rear switch but not the front) it will remain flashing.

If it is flashing at 4hz then it is telling you its impossible to go 4wd. Usually this means you are in 4L(ow) on the ratio lever. The system will not go 4wd when in low ratio.

Now I have been thinking of how to trick the system and I think it would be possible, but I would have to spend some time looking more closely at the system and experimenting. I feel its all about tricking the 4wd ECU into thinking its in 4wd, but getting the actuators to disengage by changing their solenoid charges. Should be quite simple actually.

Swapping the front hubs for manual ones is an obvious route but your front diff is still connected and also now have to get out the truck to engage/disengage them.