Frontera in subzero conditions...

[MrWolf]

Had some new "funny" problem this morning... As the temperature was reading -8C my accelerator cable had frozen up
I washed the car on Monday, indoors warm and nice, used a lot of car shampoo, water, tender love and care. I noticed now that the accelerator cable stocking has a split right at the firewall and this might be where the water enters. Anyway, it took me over 15 minutes in the cold, fiddling with pulling the cable back after i first floored it from inside and it didn't want to go back again... Warming gently wit hot air blower and lightly swearing, my missus kind off resigned and irritable waiting. We were in a hurry for work so I had to go driving with it fixed on 1500 rpm until it finally loosened up after another 10 minutes or so.

It was so cold that even the quick warm up system had seized and was not doing it's thing. The engine sounded soft from the start without the heavy rattling from the strain of breathing through the partly closed paddles. Nice mechanism - when you really need it - it doesn't even work...

And for the passenger doors in the back, they were both frozen as well. First wouldn't open, then wouldn't shut...

I remember my father used some graphite stuff on window mechanisms and the locking mechanisms in the doors to prep for winter. Anyone know of the stuff or other suitable compound to help it not seize up with ice?

[meooo]

VW do an spray oil (similar to WD40) that we had to use on old Galaxy door locks, brilliant stuff but MEGA bucks for a very small tin. However, if you want to get into the car in winter.......

[Drift]

Ive taken the cold start device on the exhaust off, never had a problem last year through the winter.
I was getting a few grumpy moans when starting in the last few weeks but a change of glow plugs has sorted that and new battery and she is firing up on chilly mornings like a goodn, though not got as low as -8 brrrrrrrr

[Rifleman]

Copper slip all the mechanisms and they wont seize up mate. I also have thin medical seringes (without the needles) and i suck up copper slip from the tin and squirt it into the locks on the doors too. Never have a problem.
If you free stuff off with WD40 and such like, make sure you dry it off once free, as they are not lubricants.
Use it to free off, dry off, then lubricate with proper lubricant.

[Drift]

I use spray grease in my locks after washing the mud off last year after a days laning I got it nice and clean then that night we had the worst frosts of the year, I couldnt get into the car for the day even hot water wasnt doing anything, lesson learnt that day, so now all greased up.
The best thing with the spray grease it can get into the awkward places.

[jammywagonwheel]

look up "Shooters Choice All Weather Synthetic high Tech Grease. Ebay is a great source.

I use it on my shotguns during the winter (and the garage door lock, Side gate bolts etc), and they have never had an issue, its designed for guns BUT to stop your locks gumming up its worth a punt. One of my fellow shooters uses 5W40 engine oil which sprays off.

The Blurb on the packet says:

PREVENTS METAL DAMAGE IN THE FOLLOWING GUN AREAS:
Actions
Frame rails
Shotgun hinges and hardware
Bolt-action locking lugs

TEMPERATURE OPERATING RANGE:
-65° F to +350° F

HIGH-TECH GREASE ADVANTAGES:
Quick and easy to apply
Odorless (for the hunter)
Clings to metal surfaces
Doesn't gum-up
Doesn't wash off with water
Doesn't melt when hot
Doesn't stiffen when cold

RECOMMENDED USES: Firearms, Fishing Tackle, Marine, Sports Equipment, Compound bows, Auto, Industrial, Shop, Household

Worth a go.. its about £5 a tube (syringe type applicator)

John

[MrWolf]

Spray grease. Good idea, I'll try that on the doors and quick warm up paddle. Have some lithium spray grease lying around.

I also changed the glow plugs a few weeks ago, but it still is a hassle to start. Cranks nice, fires, but then gets no rev even with accelerator depressed and it dies again (2,8 4jb1t). Beginning to think my battery might be a bit weak and that the glow plugs arn't doing their job. The voltmeter only barely stays over the red area when I'm glowing. Is that normal?

It should be a few amps going through the plugs if they are about one ohm each (think I have read this somewhere on the forum). In parallel that will be 1/4 ohm. And on 12ish volts that will be around 50A rushing from the battery. Then it is no wonder the battery shows a little low voltage while glowing...

[Drift]

When the glow plugs are doing their stuff my gauge sits at over a quarter, I do have a 100amp battery though, then it pops up to three quarters, check your fan belt too.