help with engine change

right i have a realy bad knock coming from my engine aso i have managed to sorce a good engine from a bloke who breaks cars it got everthing but the gearbox how easy is it to change the engine over i got an engine crane i can borrow and a few good mates that will give a hand but will i need to take the engine a gear box out to swap them over?

I'm sure you'll get plenty of links following one but I once took a C20NE 2 litre petrol engine out - learning as I went (that's how I got into Fog) and if I did it again I would:
Undo both prop shafts, undo gearbox mount bar and support with trolley jack under car, disconnect engine from gearbox and move gearbox back. Undo engine mounts, exhaust, fuel pipes and other electrical components (labelling and listing as you go). With radiator removed, lift out.
The problem is the sump as to lift over front axle so you can't just move engine forward. Did see a post on here where somebody removed the sump prior to removing engine but knowing where the sump bolts are and the care required with oil lifter/sucker thing that draws oil up from the sump pan, reckon that could be troublematical (my opinion only).
Best of luck with it

thats how i changed my c20 last year . it was just a bit awkward putting the engine back in as i refitted the sump . apart from that it wasn,t to bad .

I changed my engine on my own without moving the gear box. I then had to change the sump the next day as it had a crack in it. I did it with the engine in and would not recomend it. It took longer then the engine change. It's not a bad job too do. Just lable every thing up as you take it off

Yes - it will lift enough to let the sump clear the front axle and happy days. Undoing the prop shafts is not to hard either. Whether I did right or not who knows, but I undone the 4 bolts on each prop furthest away from the transfer box. Put a bar in the UJ to stop the front prop spinning. The prop bolts do having lock tight and I believe the recommendation is to replace with new bolts. Seemed logical to me when you think how fast the props turn when engaged.

Looking at your Mods, and seeing as you have a 2" bodylift it will make it easier still as more room...but you will need to lift the engine further to clear the front panel...
something I have done before is to throw a couple of wheel rims with no tyres on the front of the car, which drops it down low to help getting over the front panel(beats winding the torsion bars right down and back up again!), and the car can still be rolled backwards or forwards...its sometimes easier to lift the engine and roll the car back sooner that struggling moving the engine crane with a really heavy engine and box dangling high up on it...

Remember to disconnect the speedo cable, reverse light switch and the switch on the tf box that says when you are in 4x4....I always forget them thats why I am saying :shock:

....

gear levers undo real easy so whip them out from the top and disconnect the wiring at the same time...you should be able to reach it easy enough with the gearbox tunnel space increased with the BL...

Hope this helps matey...

Gregster

cheers 4 that will let ya how i get on

remember to take your time and dont lose any bits! Good luck pal!

engine swapped over 2day took alot longer than first thought :shock:

all i got to do now is to connect the exhaust we desided to take the sump off rather than move the gear box back but it all seems to run fine and i dont think i would have managed it with out the help of my good mate :lol:

have you got it running yet?