oh no not again

well guys as of lately i have been having a problem with a oil leak ,been talking to sir doris about it & thought i,d got it sussed , today my mate came and had a look at it , bad news he said . it looks like the crank seal has gone , or it could be the rear 2 bolts on the sump that are leaking ,(that end of the gasket ) either way the engine as got to come out again ,which is something i,m not to enthusiastic about . given that its freezing and damp .and i can only do it on weekends , which normally means its raining ,so guys any ideas roughly what it would cost at a garage , as if i was to do the job i,m on my jack , , my mate said its to cold for him to do it . some mate eh , :twisted:

Well put Jase we know from exsperience dont we!!!!!! :oops:

As Jase said, the crank seal is just the gear box out, get a clutch put in at the same time.
When I got the clutch done recently on my 2.8 ( I supplied the clutch ) its cost about £180 for labour 4 hours.

Hi
If you have a garage to do the work in you could get yourself one of these,( I have one in my house :dance:

) http://www.cnmonline.co.uk/Halogen-Heaters-c-1469.html they are not too expensive to buy nor do they cost the earth to run and are very effective heat wise ..
Hope it helps

Regards
Roo

Hi Kingfisher,
I had to change the rear crank oil seal recently on my C20NE, the haynes book gives it four spanners and as i had earlier arttempted the sump gasket which was also 4 spanners i was properly dreading it.
Turned out that me and Ben got it done over a weekend, saturday evening 7 - 10 ish, Sunday 8 - 10 ish and monday finishing off from about 7 - 9 ish..... it was by no means difficult it was more a long job rather than a difficult one.
The sump gasket was a different story. i spent about 4 days banging it with a hammer, using metal wedges and generally swearing at it to try to make it come off........... all with no joy. i ended up getting towed to a local garage wo also took about 7 days to complete the task, but as he only charged me £70 i couldn't really complain about the time it took him.

I was not aware of the nuggets of pure gold from FUDDY and BOBBY with regards to lifting the engine or maybe i might have managed it, either way i guess what i'm trying to say os if its the main oil seal i would not bother with putting it in a garage, just be prepared for a lenghty job..................... if it's the sump gasket, however, all i can say is good luck.

Hope this helps
Dan AKA Bill, (flobber lobber dob)

thanks for the replys guys . when i replaced the engine i also put new gaskets on the sump . one was cork , the other rubber . i put the cork gasket to the block , and the rubber to the sump . is this the right way . i,m gonna try the sump first ,. im hoping it will not be that bad as the gaskets have only been on there just over 2 months . also fitted a new clutch as well ,hoping no oil has got to it,. with the amount of oil that its been losing ,do you think its the main seal , :?:

Main seals usually weep at first and the weeping gets worse with time, Its fairly unusual for any gasket or seal to just blow suddenly unless its a headgasket.

Jase fits in to the lean on the wing and drink a brew section :lol:

when removing the sump do you have to undo the rear engine mount aswell or just the 2 side mounts , also wheres the best point on the engine to put the jack to lift the engine up .also when i bought the last set of gaskets one was rubber &the other was cork . which way do these go is it cork between the slosh plate & the block , & rubber between the sump & slosh plate , :?: