Goooooooood morning mudders

[Shaggy]

Cheers

Not gonna lie, I was bricking it for the exact same reasons Aredee. Glad I bit the bullet and did it though... just make sure you have everything at hand that you might need should the unexpected happen. I was more worried about the captive nuts/bolts breaking so made sure I had an electric drill, a few new drill bits, tap and die set, good pair of grips and plenty of coffee. The fronts I wasn't worried about as you replace them with new nuts and bolts anyway. Im no mechanic but I fitted my lift blocks on my own in 3 hours.

[aredee]

wow 3 hrs not bad local garage suggested would be about 10-15hrs and at £50 p/hr + parts could be more than i paid for car lol

[Shaggy]

Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa?!?!?!? 10-15 hours at £50 p/hr, I think im in the wrong job!!!!

[RatCav]

Garage prices

I have just done the timing chains on the Girlfriends Ford Explorer. It is an engine out job and partial strip down to get it done. We were quoted £1700 and 2 weeks minimum. I could now do it in 3 days start to finish (2 if I really pushed it). Parts around £400 delivered from the US including supplies for a full service. I made a huge saving by doing it myself. I even had to make a kit up to lock the engine down while the chains, guides, and tensioners are removed.

[Shaggy]

I think 'huge savings' an understatement pal! Kudos

Despite all the headaches and late nights its given me, I still bloody love this big green 'not so green' Tonka truck

[Retro Pedro]

Got to be one of the tidiest looking motors on here Shaggy
Food for thought but if the 2.2 head gasket ever gives you hassles what about doing the Trooper 3.1 or 2.8 engine transplant - it'll deffo last you a life time
Just need to take care where the doner lump would come from. As with second hand purchases you run the risk

[fogman]

I have just done the timing chains on the Girlfriends Ford Explorer

good job mate

[Shaggy]

Got to be one of the tidiest looking motors on here Shaggy

Haha, cheers pal... its all camera trickery tho, she definitely a 6ft car... as in she looks great from 6ft away (Have you not seen the big dent in the front wing lol)

I'm having a few 4wd issues at the min, ive done a bit of laning but nothing that the tyres and rwd cant deal with... as soon as ive fixed it it'll be getting dirty I promise

I bought my Frontera knowing that 4wd isn't working but I don't have a clue why, I led under it yesterday and span the diff by hand and in 4H it locked as it should but it didn't turn the driveshafts. I was hoping it would so that would rule out the transfer box? (Im not overly confident when it comes to mechanical stuff) Whilst messing about I thought I'd take off/strip down the O/S hub as I need to change the wheel bearing anyway but I couldn't work out how to take it all off so greased it up and put it back together... it all looked ok as but it was full of rusty water and dry as a bone. (I'll upload some pictures shortly)

If I jack it up with all 4 wheels in the air and run it in 4H would the driveshafts turn but not the wheels if it was just the hubs?

**Edit**

Just found Riflemans post on how to change the wheel bearing, I got as far as removing the adjuster ring before I got scared and put it all back together as tbh, I hadn't a clue what I was doing lol.

http://www.fronteraowners.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=35891

Kudo's for the 'How to' sir

[Shaggy]

Yuk!







What the photos don't show is all the rusty muddy water that came out when I took them off

[RatCav]

That will be why your 4wd isn't working

[Shaggy]

You think?

I actually REALLY hope so but i'll not hold my breath... im still thinking its the Diff tbh. That said, I've not yet had it up in the air and checked it.

I've been searching the forum trying to learn as much as I can and the things that keep popping up are Vac pipes and Solenoids. Are these a Fronty B problem or does the A have them too? Only reason I ask is when I engage 4H and roll forward/backward I don't hear any clunk/click/bang(?)

[Shaggy]

Oooh, I've also found that my shaft spigot bearings both have play... how much play is acceptable?

[RatCav]

Vac pipes and things generally electrical are all B Series issues. You have an old school A series. Simple and effective.

Shaft spigot bearings? Do you mean main wheel bearings?

[Shaggy]

Tbh, I have no idea what I mean lol I'd googled it and thought that's what it was....

I jacked my truck up in the air tonight and ran it in 4H... sadly the prop turns but not the driveshafts so I guess it wasn't the Autohubs after all but my Diffs shot On the flip side I've been offered a Trooper one but I don't know if it'll fit?

Had a couple of hours polishing yesterday, for what it is I wasn't going to go to town on it. I know most of the scratches and swirls will come out with the DA but I just couldn't be arsed

Megs wash and wax, dried, polished using some Megs Ultimate compound and then a once over with some CarSpunk wax.









Black wheels are on my 'To do' list

It'll get dirty soon..... I promise

[RatCav]

Trooper diff won't fit unfortunately, You will need the entire front axle, and even then it will probably be the wrong ratio.

Greg is a Fronty breaker. He has a 2.2 in at the moment. I am going down his way at the weekend. If you message him I can grab it for you if you buy it off him. He will probably have a decent set of hubs as well. If you go for it I can drop them off and some point help you fit it all.

You mayt want to start a thread in "Members ride" section. This is getting a bit longer than a "hello" thread now lol.

Members Ride Section:

viewforum.php?f=46

Link to Gregs For Sale thread:

viewtopic.php?f=26&t=59362

[gregster]

Yep...I have a 2.2 front axle in one that came in the other day...

[Shaggy]

You may want to start a thread in "Members ride" section. This is getting a bit longer than a "hello" thread now lol.

Tbh, I kinda thought that the other day

Greg is a Fronty breaker. He has a 2.2 in at the moment. I am going down his way at the weekend. If you message him I can grab it for you if you buy it off him.

Mate as much as I want to get it fixed, and I really really do, im skint at the min It'll be a couple of weeks before I can afford one now

Had another couple of hours tinkering tonight, 'Borrowed' some 80/90 diff oil and gasket paste from work. I've not yet refilled the diffs (Do I really need to fill the front, it doesn't work therefore I wont be selecting 4wd? (Saves a few quid as i'll only be draining it again when I fit a new diff)) but ive taken off and painted the rear diff cover, red, just because At some point its had a recon diff fitted on the front so that was no problem, well other than being broke haha. Fluid didn't really needed changing though to be fair. Rear drain plug however was a real PiTA, as with every bloody nut and bolt on this dam thing it was rounded and chewed. Gentle persuasion and a touch of heat soon got it out

[RatCav]

Thats fair. When you drained the front diff did any metal come out at all?

I am still thinking the hubs may be at fault. Personally I would refill the front diff, just in case.

Check your option code VIN plate on the bulkhead. There may be a remote chance you have the code "G80" If so you will need to fill the rear diff with LSD gear oil.

[Shaggy]

No there was nothing at all, in fact the fluid was quite clean I've put it back in for now, just to be safe

N/S auto hub engages and disengages when I turn the driveshaft but weirdly I cant turn the O/S by hand. I need to get it back up in the air and try with a bar or something

Check your option code VIN plate on the bulkhead. There may be a remote chance you have the code "G80" If so you will need to fill the rear diff with LSD gear oil.

Gulp! I didn't even think about that..... (Runs outside to check VIN plate) Phew, were good haha

[Shaggy]

Rear diff plates now leaking worse than it was Used plenty of instant gasket and I left it to cure a good 24hrs before refilling it, dunno why its leaking tbh